Retinoids are a whole family of vitamin A derivatives. They include, among others retinol, retinaldehyde, retinol esters, retinoic acid esters, the so-called granactive retinoid .

Retinoids influence the formation of properly built skin cells, normalize their maturation and cell division, thus they promote skin cell renewal. First, retinoids affect the upper layers of the epidermis, helping to smooth the skin, improve its structure and color, and reduce keratosis. Then retinoids affect the deeper layers of the skin, increase the production of skin proteins (collagen and elastin) responsible for its firmness, at the same time have the ability to repair and rebuild already damaged collagen and elastin fibers . The structure and operation of the living layer of the skin is also improved, which allows the epidermis to connect with the dermis and is responsible for the proper nourishment and regeneration of the skin. In addition, retinoids stimulate the production of hyaluronic acid in the skin, the amount of which decreases with age and which is responsible for the proper hydration of skin cells. Thanks to these properties, after a few months of use, the skin becomes visibly firmer and fuller, more elastic, small wrinkles disappear, deep and mimic wrinkles are reduced, facial features and contour are improved.

Retinoids are also brightening spots ingredients, they are suitable for the care of skin with sun discoloration, hormonal discoloration and melasma. Discoloration gradually fades away with regular and long-term use of products with an appropriate dose of retinoid. Treatment for several months (minimum six) helps to reduce even intense discoloration. The skin becomes less earthy and has a healthier color. Retinoids also help reduce post-inflammatory discoloration, e.g. acne discoloration or after injuries, improve blood circulation in the skin, thus regulating the process of nourishing and oxygenating the skin and giving it a healthy shade.

Retinoids also improve the skin's immune system, so that despite the initial increase in skin sensitivity to the sun, with regular use they increase the skin's natural mechanisms that protect against the effects of the sun.

Retinoids are also ingredients suitable for the care of oily and acne prone skin . They regulate the amount of sebum secreted, reduce oiliness, reduce the tendency to create blackheads and pimples, and narrow the openings of the skin pores.

Due to the regulation of the sebaceous glands, in the case of dry skin, retinoids may cause a temporary feeling of dryness in the initial phase of treatment. As treatment continues, retinoids promote the production of skin moisturizers, so overall skin hydration improves and increases.

Regulating and normalizing the action of retinoids makes them also used for the care of atopic, psoriasis, rosacea, dermatoses, etc.

(source: Biochemia Urody)

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